Left: Emek Sineması, once (R.I.P.)
Remember the days when people dressed up to go to the movies, where they would be greeted by an elegantly dressed man in a bow tie before being led into a theater with an ornate gold-gilded proscenium, plush velvet seats, red-carpeted aisles, and a sophisticated crowd buzzing in anticipation of the up-coming feature? Neither do I. The last time I went to the movies I had to pass through a beeping metal detector (twice), have a man dressed like a cop pass a radioactive stick over my crotch, walk past cardboard cutouts of a smiling cartoon fish, and then be led by an apathetic teenager into a theater that had all the charm of a warehouse with sticky floors and a strange odor that seemed like a mix of everything but deodorant… I was then forcibly seated behind Mr. Dandruff and his hyperactive cell-phone, which, with its Hurdy Gurdy ring tone, was at least able to wake me up at regular intervals during the inane movie I had chosen to see featuring a star-saturated cast of over-actors in stupid costumes. No, the magic was not there. But don’t despair, because there are still movie theaters in Istanbul that have preserved a sense of quaintness, nostalgia, and – dare I say it – magic, all reminiscent of a bygone era. Almost all of them are in Beyoğlu (with the lavish exception of Süreyya in Kadıköy), and almost all of them are small theaters (with the grand exception of Emek), but they’re none the worse for it. However, before we give you a cinema-by-cinema run down, there are a few idiosyncrasies to Turkish cinema-going that every neophyte should be aware of:
First, unlike in most other countries, you have a seat number on your ticket and are required to sit in your allotted seat. So, if you’re going to do a seat switch, don’t do it until 10 minutes into the main feature, until which time people are usually still coming in. It’s embarrassing to be caught switching seats, because it's really awkward if someone claims your seat. You will only look like a jackass for arguing with anyone out of frustration, and end up feeling like a school kid that’s been reprimanded in front of the whole class. Retracing your sorry steps on the walk of shame back to your old seat amid snickers and mocking glances from those around you will make it all even more annoying... plus you'll miss the funny bit of the film with the sexual-tension-laden witty repartees between Keanu Reeves, say, and Sandra Bullock, for example, before they soon discover they're ironically mismatched soulmates, and you gag and wonder why you spent all that money to see that film.
Secondly, there is a ten-minute intermission during every movie, in every theater, because they still change reels here. Come exactly half-way, the movie is cut with all the delicacy of a guillotine as the first reel ends. It could be in mid-sentence, it could be during a car-chase or a big explosion, but the guy up in the dingy projector room working on minimum wage does not care. Neither does the apathetic management trying to make a few bucks selling crackers and tea at the cafeteria. Even if they don't change reels anymore, they still have a ten-minute intermission to sell aforementioned crackers and tea, I suppose.
Thirdly, most cinemas are not exactly run by aficionados with an eye for fine details, nor do they hire film lovers who appreciate the art form, the ambiance, the enchanted space that makes a fine movie theater. The film might be cut before the end credits even appear, the sound might be off for 15 minutes before anyone realizes, the door might be left open with fluorescent stairwell light streaming in, and the movie might be out of focus for minutes… So expect to find the same shabby standards in cinemas as you do elsewhere.
With that having been said, there are cinemas and theaters that are worth your while. Every one of them has a unique feel, and every one of them will make you pause, reflect, and look around for a second or two when you enter and take your seat. So, forget the shopping-mall multiplexes and make a day of it in historic Beyoğlu or Kadıköy, as you stop by a patisserie, catch a movie, go bargain shopping, and have a nice stroll with your significant other.
Alkazar
One of our favorites. You enter through a marble façade flanked by Hellenistic statues and dragons peering menacingly down from above. They usually show good art-house movies and stay away from the trashy blockbusters. The Alkazar and Asia theaters are elegantly decorated and make for a cozy movie-going experience. Tickets: 9 YTL
(0212) 293 24 66,
İstiklal Caddesi 179, Beyoğlu.
Atlas
A dramatic entrance awaits you as you pass majestic marble columns in the historic Atlas Passage before entering a kitsch but quaint set of stairs lined with nostalgic posters of movies from the golden years of Hollywood that leads to an open white café area surrounded with pillars. They don’t play the best films here (they were recently showing The Village), but if you want a bit of entertainment and a nice little getaway, Atlas is unique. Tickets: 10 YTL
(0212) 252 85 76
İstiklal Caddesi 209, Atlas Passage, Beyoğlu.
Beyoğlu and Pera
You have to check out the hand-painted Beyoğlu Theater depicting a fantastic İstiklal Avenue mural, replete with winged horsemen, mythical figures, and maybe even the odd familiar face in a fable-like procession along the walls and leading to a stylish proscenium. Pera theater is also cute, but without the exciting murals of its sister theater. Also, they not only show relatively good films, they show the ones you may have missed months ago but wanted to see. Tickets: 9 million TL (9 YTL)
(0212) 251 32 40
İstiklal Caddesi 140, Halep Passage, Beyoğlu.
Cinemajestic
Situated in the historic Majestik building, Cinemajestic isn’t glamorous, but it has a certain grungy charm. You can have your coffee fortune or tarot cards read for free, or you can kill time playing games like backgammon while you wait for your show. The theaters are small and quaint, the movies range from mainstream to artsy, with the odd surprise thrown in every now and again. Good movies shown during festivals. Tickets: 8 YTL
(0212) 244 97 07
Ayhan Işık Sokak 10 (off Istiklal Caddesi), Beyoğlu.
Emek
The only place that still has that grand and nostalgic ambience, not just by virtue of its breathtaking theater and large screen, but even in terms of the people that work there, all of whom are kindly old retired people (“emekli” means retired). The manager, Hikmet Dikmen, has been there since 1956. His is a labor of love, and you feel the magic when you set foot in Emek. The award-winning theater’s architectural style is further compounded by its spaciousness. Although they normally show mainstream movies, they are also the cornerstone for all the movie festivals, which is when this magnificent venue really shines above the rest. One of the most beautiful cinemas in Turkey, perhaps even in all of Europe. Tickets: 10 YTL
(0212) 293 84 39
Yesilçam Sokak 5 (off Istiklal Caddesi), Beyoğlu.
Süreyya
With its historic building, its great acoustics (with Dolby Surround Sound) and spacious interior, Süreyya is one of the nicest places to catch a flick in Istanbul, and is certainly on a par with Emek. It’s well worth a trip to the Asian side just to watch a movie here. When you enter the theater you’ll wish you’d dressed up. Tickets: 9 YTL
(0216) 336 06 82
Bahariye Caddesi 29, Kadıköy.
Yesilçam
Probably the cutest and most intriguing cinema you’ll ever see. You go in through a crummy street door in a mediocre building, and you might even miss the perfunctory sign indicating that there’s a cinema there. But as you descend the stairs, you suddenly find yourself in a Jan Svankmaier set as you enter a room full of character and lush colors, totally covered with nostalgic posters and photos from the golden age of Turkish cinema. You feel like you’re in a private film club that’s been set up just for you and a select group of people. And when you proceed into the theater through a velvet curtain, it’s as if you and your friends are sharing an intimate gathering in someone’s living room. You get the urge to strike up conversations and discuss the movie with those next to you. The seats are essentially wooden, the carpets are weathered, the screen and projector are old, but it’s all so fun. Plus they only show good movies – or, in the words of the proprietor: “Movies that leave you feeling enriched after having seen them.” Little tip: Look up the semi-circular stairwell after having entered the main building, just before you descend the stairs leading to the cinema. Tickets: 8 YTL
(0212) 293 68 00
İmam Adnan Sokak 10 (off Istiklal Caddesi), Beyoğlu.
